14th May 2015

Again, our house alarm system decided to make itself known at 2:26 am, ringing persistently. Shortly afterwards, Charlotte sent a text to let us know that the system was also contacting her. After a flurry of emailed instructions and another message from Charlotte confirming that Suraj had managed to resolve the issue, I turned off my mobile, relieved. Just as I was about to return to sleep, Sarah Skyped me on my tablet. After a brief conversation, I finally got back to bed.

The alarm clock went off as planned at 6:45 am, pulling us from our slumber. After quick showers, we headed to breakfast at 7:00 am, ate our fill, and were soon speeding down the highway in a taxi bound for Marble Mountain.The journey took about 40 minutes. Upon arrival, our driver paid for the tickets for the lift to the first level and pointed out where he would wait for us once we were finished. The day was already warming up and would reach a sweltering 37°C by the time we completed our visit. Marble Mountain rises sharply from the surrounding plain, with five caves, each containing obligatory shrines. There were also several viewpoints offering stunning vistas of the countryside, as well as four temples, all filling the air with Buddhist music or the rhythmic chanting of monks.

As the day wore on, the steps grew steeper, and the heat more intense, but we weren’t alone; other visitors braved the challenging conditions. In one of the caves, I was unexpectedly approached by a group of tourists, likely Chinese, who insisted on taking a photo with me. It brought back memories of walking along the Great Wall and the endless requests for a photo.

After three hours of exploring, we finally emerged at ground level on the far side of the mountain. We took a well-earned break at a small café, enjoying a cold beer and lemonade before being enticed into a nearby sculpture shop. There, we found ourselves the proud owners of two green, soapstone marble sculptures, a horse and a snake.

Retracing our steps back over the mountain, we visited a pagoda we had missed earlier before descending via the lift to reunite with our driver. He greeted us with two wonderfully cold towels, pure bliss! With the car’s air conditioning on full blast, we made our way back to the hotel, thoroughly exhausted but satisfied.

Back in our room, we enjoyed another Skype chat with Sarah, who amusingly was still in bed. Ha, ha!

We debated heading out for lunch, but ultimately decided against it. The heat was oppressive, and neither of us felt particularly hungry. Instead, after some time relaxing, we ventured down to the beach for a stroll. Walking along the shoreline with the waves lapping at our feet was refreshing, but the highlight of the outing was spotting a sea snake.

We watched, fascinated, as it slithered across the sand and into the surf. Battling the breaking waves, it finally disappeared into the sea, a sight neither of us had ever witnessed before.

After returning to the hotel to freshen up and change, we decided to head back into Hoi An for dinner, catching the shuttle bus into town.

By the time we arrived, the town had transformed into something akin to a carnival. While the same shops and street stalls were open, the atmosphere was livelier, with people dressed in traditional or folk costumes and musicians starting to appear along the streets. Our plan was simple: walk the length of the Old Town riverbank and then pick a restaurant on the way back for our evening meal.

During our stroll, I bought a towel, essential for tomorrow if the heat matches today’s. I’d nearly melted at times and decided it was worth the investment to keep the perspiration at bay. Feeling generous, I handed Sue 200,000 Dong (roughly $10), which she swiftly spent. First, she bought a large bag of peanuts for 15,000 Dong, a bargain considering the original price was 20,000 Dong. The seller’s wife took pity on the “poor European” and encouraged her husband to lower the price. However, this act of charity didn’t go unnoticed by another gentleman, who soon got into a heated exchange with the seller.

Sue then set her sights on a T-shirt and launched into her signature bargaining mode. Anticipating the theatrics, I tactically retreated into a nearby restaurant to avoid any fallout. It turned out to be a good call, as the restaurant itself became our dining choice for the evening.

The meal was delightful, and the drinks, beer for me and cider for Sue, were practically a steal at the prices they charged (though Sue might have haggled them down even further if given the chance). The whole experience added a lively, memorable end to a wonderful day.

After dinner, we wandered into the heart of Hoi An’s Old Town to soak up the evening atmosphere. It was nothing short of magical. Pretty lanterns illuminated the trees, and the bridges sparkled with suspended, dancing lights, creating a scene straight out of a fairy tale. Adding to the enchantment were delicate paper lantern boats, each lit with a candle, gently floating downstream.

We stopped to enjoy some folk music and, for fun, joined another round of “screeching bingo”, still with no success! Nearby, we found ourselves laughing at a traditional game where blindfolded contestants tried to smash a pot suspended from a tree using a stick. The crowd shouted directions, while the organisers added to the chaos by banging drums to drown out the instructions. It was hilarious. The Vietnamese participants, though spirited, struggled to reach the pot due to their height. However, the first European to take a turn smashed it with ease, chalk one up for fast food, we joked.

Every street was alive with delightful scenes and activities, making it hard to tear ourselves away. Eventually, we made our way back to the shuttle bus pick-up point, hoping the driver would appear this time. While waiting, we treated ourselves to the same ice creams as before. This time, we successfully boarded the bus, which was filled to capacity before leaving.

As the bus carried us back to the hotel, we reflected on the evening, which had been packed with wonderful moments and memories. I’m certain that on future warm summer nights in the UK, my mind will drift back to this magical night in Hoi An.

As we made our way back up the hotel steps, disaster struck. I caught my toe, leaving me with a bloody and sore big toenail. Ouch! Hopefully, the plaster I managed to stick on it will do the trick. I suppose tomorrow will reveal whether it holds up. For now, it’s time to rest and recover. Zzzzzzzzzzz…